Siquijor: The Witchcraft Island (That's Actually Just Beautiful)
Waterfalls, empty beaches, and a motorbike loop around an island most travelers skip. Here's why Siquijor is the Philippines' best-kept secret — and the real story behind its spooky reputation.
Last updated: September 2026
First, Understand Siquijor
Siquijor is a small, hilly island in the Visayas, a 1-hour ferry from Dumaguete. It's known as the "witchcraft island" — home to folk healers (mananambal) and centuries of mysticism lore. But for travelers, the real magic is simpler: a 72km coastal road that loops the entire island, dotted with waterfalls, beaches, and barely any tourists.
It's the kind of place that was "discovered" by backpackers a decade ago but still hasn't blown up. No chain resorts, no malls, no traffic. Just a motorbike, a good playlist, and the road.
How long to stay: 2-3 days. One full day for the loop, one for relaxing.
The Motorbike Loop (The Whole Point)
Rent a scooter ($6-8/day) and circle the island. The coastal road is smooth, scenic, and almost empty. Here's the clockwise route everyone does:
Cambugahay Falls
The star attraction — a tiered, turquoise waterfall with rope swings and natural pools. Entry is about $1, plus a small tip for the guides who help with the swings. Go early (before 9am) to have it almost to yourself. $1 entry, 15 min from San Juan.
Salagdoong Beach
A small cove with a famous cliff-jumping platform (6-8m). The water is clear and calm. Note: the jump platform gets slippery and the ladder is old — jump at your own risk, or just swim below. $1 entry.
Paliton Beach
The best sunset on the island — a short stretch of white sand with a few beach bars. Grab a San Miguel and watch the sky over Negros Island. Free.
Lazi Church & Convent
A 19th-century Spanish stone church and one of the oldest convents in Asia. Worth a quick stop for the history and the cool interior on a hot day. Free.
Old Enchanted Balete Tree
A 400-year-old banyan tree with a natural spring pool at its base where tiny fish nibble your feet. Slightly touristy, but a fun 20-minute stop on the loop. $1 entry.
The Witchcraft Thing — Real or Hype?
Siquijor's mysticism is real in one sense: the island has a genuine, centuries-old tradition of mananambal — traditional healers who use herbs, rituals, and (reportedly) magic to heal. During Holy Week each year, healers gather for a festival where they brew potions in public.
What you'll actually see as a tourist: healers selling herbal remedies in San Antonio village, and a few "love potion" souvenir stalls. It's folklore and tourism now — the island is completely safe, welcoming, and far less spooky than its reputation. Think "wellness heritage" more than "witches."
Real Costs in Siquijor (2026)
| Item | Price | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Hostel dorm bed | $6 - $9 | San Juan area is the backpacker hub |
| Local meal | $2 - $4 | Carinderias and beach grills |
| Motorbike rental | $6 - $8 | Per day, the essential transport |
| Cambugahay Falls | $1 | Entry |
| Salagdoong Beach | $1 | Entry |
| Ferry Dumaguete → Siquijor | $4 - $6 | 1 hour |
| Daily total (backpacker) | $25 - $35 | One of the best-value islands |
Getting to Siquijor
From Dumaguete: ferries leave several times daily (1 hour, $4-6). Dumaguete is reached by flight from Manila or Cebu, or by ferry from Cebu/Bohol.
From Cebu: direct ferries run in peak season (check OceanJet or Lite Ferries). Otherwise, go Cebu → Dumaguete → Siquijor.
From Bohol: this is the classic loop — Bohol → ferry → Siquijor → ferry → Dumaguete (or reverse). See the Cebu & Bohol guide to plan the full Visayas loop.
Where to Stay
The backpacker scene clusters in San Juan on the southwest coast — beachfront hostels and chill bars.
Budget: JJ's Backpackers Village ($7, social, near the beach), Coco Grove ($6, basic but friendly).
Splurge worth it: one of the beachfront bamboo huts in San Juan ($15-20) — you're paying for the sunset, and it's worth it for one night.
What Nobody Tells You
Planning a bigger trip?
Siquijor is the natural add-on to the Cebu & Bohol loop. Check itineraries for how to fit it into a 2-3 week trip.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Siquijor worth visiting?
Yes — Siquijor is one of the Philippines' most underrated islands. It has Cambugahay Falls, Salagdoong Beach, a circumnavigating coastal road perfect for motorbikes, and far fewer tourists than Cebu or Boracay. It's the ideal 2-3 day stop on a Cebu-Bohol-Siquijor loop.
Why is Siquijor called the witchcraft island?
Siquijor has a centuries-old tradition of folk healers and shamans (called mananambal) who practice herbal medicine and, according to legend, magic. The island hosts an annual healing festival during Holy Week where healers gather. Today the 'witchcraft' reputation is mostly folklore and tourism branding — the island is safe and welcoming.
How many days do you need in Siquijor?
2-3 days is ideal. One full day for the motorbike loop around the island (hitting Cambugahay Falls, Salagdoong Beach, and the old church), and one day for relaxing or snorkeling. You can see the highlights in a single day if you're on a tight schedule.
How do I get to Siquijor?
Ferries run to Siquijor from Dumaguete (1 hour, ~$4-6) and from Cebu or Bohol (less frequent). The most common route is fly to Dumaguete then ferry over. From Cebu you can also take a direct ferry during peak season.
How much does Siquijor cost per day?
Siquijor is cheap: $25-35 per day. Hostels from $6-9, local meals $2-4, motorbike rental $6-8 (the best way to explore), and Cambugahay Falls entry $1. It's one of the best-value islands in the Philippines.
Related Guides
Plan more of your trip: Budget Database · Philippines Backpacking Guide · Backpacking Itineraries · Dumaguete Apo IslandCebu Bohol